The techniques for the first three figures will apply to both kits with only slight adjustments based upon the makeups we show. Your particular needs will certainly determine your own design, but we will get you started and the rest is in your creative hands.
Before You Start: Your makeup should be applied in a clean, well lit area. Give yourself plenty of room, and arrange your materials neatly in front of you. If you are doing the makeup on yourself, make sure you have an amply sized, well lit mirror. Wear old clothes: making up can get messy! Makeup should always be applied to clean skin, so wash your hands and face and you are ready to begin. Make sure to read through all instructions thoroughly before you begin.
Time Needed: 15 minutes.
Please Note: If you have any known allergies to any of the listed ingredients of any of the components of this kit, do not use that component. Select a shade or item from your dealer’s stock that will give you a similar effect or serve a similar purpose but does not contain the ingredient to which you react.
Figure 1: Using a Liquid Latex Sponge Wedge, apply foundation in the color Fair Olive. Apply to the entire face as shown. Coat the skin evenly with a thin layer. Blend the foundation back into the hairline and onto the ears as needed to achieve a smooth, even overall skin tone. This is your foundation, your bottom coat, upon which you will add your highlights, blush color, eye shadow colors, and depending upon the character your performer may be playing, perhaps even the character lines and shadowing needed to create your finished look.
Once the blending is complete, load a puff with translucent setting powder. Sprinkle a small pile of the powder down the middle of the puff. Fold the puff and rub the puff’s sides together until the powder is substantially loaded into the velour of the puff. Using a gentle but rapid motion, work the powder deliberately across the face, one section at a time. Reload the puff frequently to avoid excessive “offsetting” of the makeup onto your puff. When the makeup is fully set, the makeup will be touchable without any coming off.
If you are putting makeup on someone else, always approach the eye area gently and with warning. Have your subject close her eyes when coloring the upper lid and below the brows. Make sure their eyes are looking up when you applying makeup below the eyelid.
Figure 2: Performance kits include two shades of Graftobian Luster Creme and Powder combinations. The medium kit includes Astral Peach and Copper Quasar. Apply the Astral Peach Creme with a brush from below the eyebrow all the way down to the eyelashes. Taper down at both inside and outside of the eye area as desired. Apply the Copper Quasar creme to the eye lid up to the brow bone. Next, apply the powder over the creme on the eyelid and anywhere else you’ve applied creme.
Apply Astral Peach Powder to the area below the brow and down to the copper of the lid. Blend as desired using a gentle sweeping motion. Soften the effect by sweeping color to the outer corners of the eye areas. If Luster Powder sprinkles down onto the cheek, don’t fret. If your foundation was powdered properly with setting powder, the luster powder can easily be whisked away with a powder brush.
Apply blush to the high part of the cheekbones–typically from an area in line with the outside of the eye back toward the ear. Use more blush for a dramatic effect. If you’ve applied too much, you can soften it with a light application of powder.
Figure 3: The eyes are highlighted by the application of the lining pencil in Black Velvet. For ballet eyes, draw a line going from the upper eyelid out and up. Draw another line from just below the eye out and down.
Apply the Light Highlight Creme similar to the foundation application above.
Note: Some makeup artists choose to apply their highlights immediately after the foundation by blending it into the foundation and following up with a setting powder. Highlights are applied to the high points of the face, the forehead immediately above the eyebrows, the cheekbones above and below the blush for extra impact. Apply more to the ridge of the nose, the point of the chin and along the jaw line. The highlight creme is applied lightly and blended back to soften the effect until you achieve the look you desire. Once the highlighting is complete, set with powder.
To finish, apply lip color. Some performers are most comfortable applying lipstick directly from the stick. However, color will last much longer and you’ll have better control if you apply color with a lip brush. Use the lip liner pencil to outline the lips first and fill in the rest.
Figure A: Apply Warm Olive Creme Foundation and set with powder.
Figure B: Apply Shimmering Sand Luster Creme to upper eye area and Burgundy Blast Luster Creme to the lids. Apply matching Luster Powders as detailed above. Apply blush.
Figure C: Apply simple eye lines for the ballet eye as described above. Apply highlights with the Medium Highlight Creme and set with powder. Apply lip color.
With all the colors of Graftobian Luster Powders and Cremes, and all the colors of Graftobian Powdered Glitter, the spectrum of color available to you is vast. Add your imagination with regard to eyes and other skin designs and the possibilities are truly endless.
Removal: The creme make-up portion of your face is most easily removed with Graftobian Make-Up Remover or Cold Cream Makeup Remover (not included). Once all creme make-up is carefully removed, gently wash the rest of your face and skin with soap and water.
Disclaimer: Graftobian Theatrical sells all products in good faith for professional use, but can assume no responsibility for the deliberate misuse of cosmetics and/or other products. In other words, please read and follow all instructions carefully to avoid problems or injury!
Other Graftobian Products: Graftobian is a manufacturer of all sorts of make-up. From novelty soap-based Face Painting Make-up called Disguise Stix®, to our Graftobian® Colored & Glitter Premium Hair Sprays and Gels, to our complete line of Professional Graftobian Theatrical Make-Up and Accessories, Graftobian has it all! Ask your dealer about the other fine Graftobian products they carry in their store.