Before you start: Your makeup should be applied in a clean, well lit area. Give yourself plenty of room, and arrange your materials neatly in front of you. If you are doing the makeup on yourself, make sure you have an amply size well lit mirror. Apply your makeup before you get into your costume when practical, otherwise use a drape to protect your outfit from any accidental spilling, etc. Makeup should always be applied to clean skin, so wash your hands and face, and you are ready to begin. Apply a light moisturizer prior to makeup application, depending on your skin type.
Time Needed: This will require 15 minutes to complete.
Please Note: If you have any known allergies to any of the listed ingredients of any of the components of this kit, do not use that component. Select a shade or item from your dealer’s stock that will give you a similar effect or serve a similar purpose but does not contain the ingredient to which you react.
As you are laying out your make-up as suggested above, be sure you have all of the items listed on the front label panel under “This Kit Contains.” Use of optional suggested items will be discussed below.
Applying the Makeup: The colors of the Light Kit will be discussed first, then those of the Medium Kit followed by the Dark Kit. The techniques described for the first three figures will apply to all three kits with only slight adjustments based upon the makeups we show. Your particular needs will certainly determine your own design, but we will get you started on the right path and the rest is in your creative hands.
Figure A: Using a White Sponge Wedge, wipe across the surface of the Fairest Tone Foundation to load the sponge. Once the sponge is properly loaded, apply the foundation to the face and neck. Blend the foundation back into the hair line and onto the ears as needed to achieve a smooth, even overall skin tone.
Coat the skin evenly but with as thin a coat as possible to get your desired opacity. This is your foundation, your bottom coat, upon which you will add your blush color, eye shadow colors, and depending upon the character your performer may be playing, perhaps even the character lines, highlights and shadowing needed to create your finished look.
Once the foundation is completely applied, it’s time to apply your Face Powder. Load powder onto powder puff by sprinkling a small pile of powder onto the middle of the puff, folding the puff and rubbing the puff’s sides together until the powder is substantially loaded into the velour of the puff. Using a gentle but rapid patting motion work the powder deliberately across the face, one section at a time. Reload the puff frequently to avoid excessive “offsetting” of the make-up onto your puff. When the face is fully “set” you will be able to touch the make-up without it coming off. Whisk away any excess powder with a powder brush (not included) or a tissue.
Note: If you are putting make-up on someone else, always approach the eye area gently and with warning. Never just stab away with your sponge, brush, or other implement. Have your subject close her eyes when coloring the upper lid and below the brows. Have her open her eyes and look up when you are coloring the areas just below the eye, including the lower eyelid.
Figure B: Performance kits include two shades of Graftobian Luster Creme & Powder combinations. The light kit includes Pink Champagne and Blue Jazz. Apply with the Pink Champagne Luster Creme with a brush or fingertips from below the eyebrow all the way down to the eyelashes. Taper down at both inside and outside of the eye area as desired. Apply the Blue Jazz creme to the eye lid up to the brow bone and then swoop out a little following the brow bone as shown. Now it is time to apply the Luster Powder over the Luster Creme. Apply the Blue Jazz to the eyelid using the brush end of a double ended applicator. Follow the area you created with the creme until you have applied a sufficient coat of powder to achieve the look you desire.
Apply the Pink Champagne Luster Powder with your other applicator’s brush end to the area below the brow and down to the blue of the lid. Blend as desired using a gentle sweeping of the brush end of your applicator. Use that same brush end to soften the effect or to pull color to the outside of the eye area if desired. Don’t be concerned if some luster powder sprinkles down onto the cheek. If your foundation was powdered properly with the face powder, the luster powder will just whisk away with a powder brush or similar implement.
Apply the Glamour Powder Blush using the blush brush provided in the lower compartment of the compact. Apply the blush to the high part of the cheekbone typically from an area in line with the outside of the eye back to the edge of the face. Use more blush for more dramatic effect. If you find that you have applied too much blush, soften it with the light application of your face powder.
Figure C: The eyes are highlighted by the application of your Black Eyeliner Pencil lines. In this case, our artist has chosen the “ballet eyes” effect. A line from the upper eyelid drawn out and up and another line from just below the eye drawn out and down. To further jazz up this performer, we make use of the Magic Set Mixing and Lining Liquid and our Opalescent Powdered Glitter to add sparkle and impact. Add a few drops of the Lining Liquid to a pinch of the Powdered Glitter, then using your Brush simply paint the glitter mixture over the top of your black lines and allow to dry. Make sure the mixture isn’t too dry or clumpy, a little experimentation will yield the perfect consistency.
To finish, apply the Lipstick. Some performers are more comfortable applying lipstick directly from the stick. However, you will yield longer lasting lipstick and have better control if you apply the lipcolor with a brush. Use your Lipliner Pencil to outline the lips first, then apply the lipcolor within the lip lines you have drawn.
Apply mascara or false eyelashes if you so choose (both not included)
Figure 1: Apply Warm Honey creme foundation and Powder down.
Figure 2: Apply Golden Nova Luster to upper eye area and Fuchsia Fire Luster to the lids. Apply Luster Powders as detailed above. Apply Blush.
Figure II: Apply Astral Peach Luster to upper eye area and Burgundy Blast Luster to the lids. Apply matching powders as detailed above, although in this case we added a little extra Astral Peach to the lid area to soften the look. Apply blush.
Figure III: Apply eye lines for “ballet eye” effect. Apply Magic Set and Opal Glitter mixture over “ballet eyes” lines as we did for Figure C above. Apply Lip Color.
For this performer’s final look, we added Red Glitter to Magic Set and Silver Glitter to Magic Set and painted on bold lines for effect and impact. Let your imagination be your guide (various additional colors of glitter are sold separately).
Figure X: Shows the mixing of Luster Powder with Magic Set Mixing and Lining Liquid to create an easy flowing, luster colored liquid eye liner.
Figure Y: Shows the application of the resultant liquid to the eye lid. Allow to dry completely before opening the eye so as not to smudge the coloring.
Figure Z: Shows the final effect once the opal glitter is added to Magic Set and applied over the top of the Luster Liquid from step Y.
With all the colors of Graftobian Luster Powders and Cremes, and all the colors of Graftobian Powdered Glitter, the spectrum of color available to you is vast. Add your imagination with regard to eyes and other skin designs and the possibilities are truly endless.
Removal: Our makeup is easily removed with Graftobian Make-Up Remover or Cold Cream Makeup Remover (not included). Once all creme make-up is carefully removed, gently wash the rest of your face and skin with soap and water.
Disclaimer: Graftobian Theatrical sells all products in good faith for professional use, but can assume no responsibility for the deliberate misuse of cosmetics and/or other products. In other words, please read and follow all instructions carefully to avoid problems or injury!
Other Graftobian Products: Graftobian is a manufacturer of all sorts of make-up. From novelty soap-based Face Painting Make-up called Disguise Stix®, to our Graftobian® Colored & Glitter Premium Hair Sprays and Gels, to our complete line of Professional Graftobian Theatrical Make-Up and Accessories, Graftobian has it all! Ask your dealer about the other fine Graftobian products they carry in their store.