Optional: If you are using this instruction sheet in conjunction with one of our small student kits, you will need to pick up some crepe wool, spirit gum & spirit gum remover and a good pair of scissors to accomplish the beard laying portion of the instructions. Even if you have one of our deluxe kits, it's recommended that you pick up a bit of extra crepe wool so you can have enough wool to get some practice in.
Before You Start: Your make-up should be applied in a clean, well lit area. Give yourself plenty of room, and arrange your materials neatly in front of you. If you are doing the make-up on yourself, make sure you have an amply sized, well lit mirror. Wear old clothes-- making up can get messy! Make-up should always be applied to clean skin, so wash your hands and face and you are ready to begin.
Time Needed: This will require 45 -60 Minutes to complete.
Please Note: If you have any known allergies to any of the listed ingredients of any of the components of this kit, do not use that component. Select a shade or item from your dealer's stock that will give you a similar effect or serve a similar purpose but does not contain the ingredient to which you react. If any of the products contained in this kit cause discomfort, remove as instructed and discontinue use.
Old Age Make-Up:
|Figure 1: Using a Latex Sponge Wedge, wipe across the surface of the Old Age Foundation to load the sponge. Once the sponge is properly loaded, apply the foundation to the areas of the face as shown. |
Coat the skin evenly but with as thin a coat as possible to get your desired opacity. This is your foundation, your bottom coat, upon which you will build the character lines, highlights and shadowing needed to create a realistic looking face. Note that you are covering all exposed skin, which includes the ears, neck and into the hairline; you want to cover all skin that will be showing once you have finished making-up and the costuming has been added.
Note: If you are putting make-up on someone else, always approach the eye area gently and with warning. Never just stab away with your sponge, brush, or other implement. Have your subject close her eyes when coloring the upper lid and below the brows. Have her open her eyes and look up when you are coloring the areas just below the eye, including the lower eyelid.
|Figure 2: Begin your creation of the old man's features by selecting the Plum Creme shade. As shown in this figure, we have used our Brush to apply this shadow shade to the temples, hollow of the cheeks, nasal fold, under eye bag, forehead wrinkles, neck wrinkles, chin wrinkle, etc. This creates shadows, or deep recesses.|
|Figure 3: This figure shows two steps: creating highlights and shadows. Using your Brush, apply Light Highlight to all of the high points on the face such as the cheekbones, the fleshy part of the cheek outside of the nasal fold, the middles of the forehead wrinkles, the point of the chin, the forehead above the brow, the intermediate areas between neck wrinkles and lip wrinkles and crows feet at the edge of the eye. |
Then, deepen the shadows you made in Figure 1 with Deep Plum to create the crows feet, some additional lip lines and neck lines. Use the Deep Plum to deepen the eye bags and to create the bridge of the nose wrinkle set. Remember, for every shadow, there is a corresponding highlight--sometimes two.
|Figure 4: In this figure, we have softly blended each wrinkle to ease the stark nature of the drawn-on highlight and shadow lines. The more realistic and close-up you need to be, the more attention you must pay to careful blending. |
Once the blending is complete, load Powder onto Powder Puff by sprinkling a small pile of powder onto the middle of the puff, folding the puff and rubbing the puff's sides together until the powder is substantially loaded into the velour of the puff. Using a gentle but rapid patting motion, work the powder deliberately across the face, one section at a time. Reload the puff frequently to avoid excessive "offsetting" of the make-up onto your puff. When the face is fully "set" you will be able to touch the make-up without it coming off.
|Figure 5: Using your Stipple Sponge, load the Maroon Creme onto the sponge lightly and then stipple broken capillary effects on the nose, at the upper cheeks, and a few across the forehead and elsewhere if desired. |
Using your Brush and perhaps a fingertip, dot a few age spots across the forehead and down the cheeks using Plum Lining Shade. Finally, use your Medium Brown Pencil to intensify any wrinkles you feel need to be more prominent. Apply Powder to the new effects.
|Figure 6: Dip the Hair Whitening Stick in water and apply directly off the stick into the hair. Before the hair dries, comb to desired form. Repeat the same process for the eyebrows. You may also wish to use a toothbrush or an eyebrow brush to brush in this coloring opposite the natural direction of the eyebrow hair's growth. This yields a gnarled, old age look for the eyebrows.|
|Figure 7: Add costuming and you're ready for the stage.|
|Old Lady Make-Up|
|The process is substantially the same.|
|The structure of the face will be different.|
|The severity used on some of the wrinkles will be different, too.|
|In the final figure, we have added a bit of lipstick to get Granny ready to hit the town. We also used a wig in place of the hair whitener. |
Costume & Accessory Tips: Old age make-up and costuming are commonplace among theatrical productions worldwide. The costuming truly varies dependent upon what sort of old character is being portrayed; glasses, wig, hat, shawl, pipe, handbag, cigar, suspenders, slippers, newspaper, magnifying glass and a very wide variety of clothing.
Household tools Required & Optional:
Sharp Pair of Scissors-Required
Steam Iron & Ironing Board-Optional
Preparing the Crepe Wool: Do this in advance of applying any make-up. The bundles of hair included in your kit are referred to as strips of braided crepe wool. Grasp the ends of the braids and pull gently so as to unravel the thin twine holding the braid together. Remove all twine so that only the kinked wool remains. In order to straighten this hair, you have three options:
1) Gently tease the fibers by pulling them, picking them separated, pulling them some more and repeating this process, section by section until the braid is straight. Within this option you should try to deal with fibers no longer than 9", so gently pulling the fibers loose lengthwise and laying them on top of one another and pulling gently again is the way to achieve the best results.
2) Submerge the entire length of twine free wool in water for 30 seconds, lay out on a towel and blot away excess moisture. Allow to dry, or assist drying with a warm surface or a hair dryer.
3) Using a steam iron on "serious steam" setting, weight down one end of the braid and pull the braid reasonably taught while you press the steam iron along the fibers until straightened, take note that you may have to do a certain amount of untwisting of the crepe wool bundle as you iron it due to its often twisted nature. This option is by far the fastest and arguably the best way to fully straighten crepe wool.
Begin the application of the Crepe Wool by starting with the neck. You will be building this facial hair as you would shingle a roof--layering it one after the other, moving toward the center of the face.
Figure 1: The first layer of straightened crepe wool is attached under the chin. Press the cleanly trimmed end of the hair into the spirit gum on one side using the handle end of your brush.
Note: For a kinkier, curlier beard, use un-straightened hair. Dark grey-brown crepe wool was used for the majority of this beard, with light grey-brown used for highlights and edges. Spirit gum was used as the adhesive, but latex or Pro Adhesive can be used instead.
Figure 2: Crepe wool is added to throat and neck by repeating the process in Figure 1 across that band under the neck. The edges of the hair should be cut at an angle for this application so that in effect the hair points slightly forward as it hangs off of the chin. Do not attempt to cover huge areas with one giant bunch of hair, smaller patches will yield superior results, especially for the beginner. Take your time!
Figure 3: Glue crepe wool to the center of the chin. Do not go all the way up to the lower lip with the hair. Halfway up the chin is fine, as this will allow the "blend layer" (light grey-brown) to be added later. Add small patches of hair on either side of the chin, working back across the jawbone toward the ears and natural sideburns.
Figure 4: The application of the basic beard color is nearly complete. Do not go too high up on the cheeks. If you do, your beard will look like a werewolf instead of a human being! Check for obvious gaps and loose patches and repair them before proceeding to the next step.
Figure 5: With the basic beard color completed, light grey-brown crepe wool is now applied very sparsely at the edges for a "blend layer." Also, a little extra has been added to the chin and sideburn area for a little natural highlighting. A real beard is never all one color, and this lighter tone breaks up and softens the sharp harsh edge across the chin and cheeks.
Figure 6: Beard complete, mustache started. Begin by gluing small tufts of hair at the outer corners of the upper lip. These ends hang free, and should not be glued into the beard area. Remember to leave room just under the nose for the blend hair.
Figure 7: Hair application complete. Press the beard down with a clean lintless towel to make sure all the hair is securely attached. Gently comb through the beard with a wide-toothed comb, removing any excess hair. Correct any bald spots or loose patches.
Figure 8: Using a sharp pair of Scissors (a barber's shears is recommended), carefully cut and shape your beard. Always make your beard longer than needed to allow for this final trimming. Don't rush! Haste and carelessness can cause injuries. Pointing the scissor blades upwards as you trim (especially on the cheeks) will give a more natural appearance to your beard. Use small, sharp scissors to carefully trim the mustache (cuticle scissors or mustache-trimming scissors are best). After trimming, Graftobian Setting Spray was added over beard to "fix" it in place.
Removal: Your crepe wool should be removed with Spirit Gum Remover. Pull off as much of the hair as you can, then moisten a cotton ball or a paint brush with the SGR. Soak the gummed areas with the SGR and once dissolved, the gum will simply wipe away. Once all residue is gone, wash gently with soap and warm water.
Disclaimer: Graftobian Theatrical sells all products in good faith for professional use, but can assume no responsibility for the deliberate misuse of cosmetics and/or other products. In other words, please read and follow all instructions carefully to avoid problems or injury!
Removal: Our make-up is most easily removed with make-up remover or Cold Cream Make-Up Remover (not included). Once all make-up is carefully removed, gently wash with soap and water. The hair coloring washes out very easily with warm water and shampoo. In fact, since the stick is soap-based, it will substantially wash out with just warm water.
Other Graftobian Products: Graftobian is a manufacturer of all sorts of make-up. From novelty soap-based Face Painting Make-up called Disguise Stix®, to our Graftobian® Colored & Glitter Premium Hair Sprays and Gels, to our complete line of Professional Graftobian Theatrical Make-Up and Accessories, Graftobian has it all! Ask your dealer about the other fine Graftobian products they carry in their store.
©Graftobian Make-up Co. LLC
Madison, WI 53714